The purpose of this page is to show customers some of the services they can get here as well as a semi how to for the do it your self types out there.
The story of this car began a long long time ago with the second owner of this 2005 CGM STI. Like all ej20 and ej25 boosted engines he spun a rod bearing and decided to drive home with it knocking and didnt quite make it. So he then sent the car to a well known shop here in DFW where it sat for 9 months and some of his parts were stolen. Agitated the customer sent the car to Sewell Subaru to be fixed where it sat for 3 more months until his insurance paid it off and he wanted out of the car. Sewell quickly called us and we bought the car from the customer. At the customers request he wanted to see how we would have done it had the car showed up here first. So here it is the full build of the lost STI. We will be street porting the heads, building the short block, deleting tgv's, adding our custom super awesome turbo, full fuel system, tune, clutch, brakes, tint, rear trunk area, coilovers, diff mounts, headlights taillights, and any and everything that is wrong with the car to restore it to better than new condition.
All processes will be photo graphed and explained. This will be a step by step with about 80% of the info you will need to build your car on a budget. There is no reason to pay someone 18k to have 400-440whp which is what this car will make and make reliably all day long. The last 20% of the information we are leaving out are processes specifc to our company not to be shared.
We will start with the heads
The work we will show you on the heads will get you within 95% air flow of any head currently available for sale and about 90% of the big port heads with bigger valves. The USDM STI heads flow quite well with almost all the restriction at the valve seat. Please be carefull if your doing this on your own, the walls on the ports are very thin as well as the sharp angle before the exhaust vavle in the port.
Dissassemble the heads, find a large clean surface area.
Label the cam caps and valve to mark their position. This will make resetting the clearancing on the valves much easier upon reassembly.
These are the absolute bare minimun of tools you need to complete the port and polish on the heads.
Look closely at the shadow under the intake seat. See the gigantic lip there. This has to go. You will need to blend the seat into the head because the hole in the head is bigger. You must be very carefull working in the valve seat area. You can instantly trash a head with on slip of the tool.
This is what it should look like blended in. No its not sanded or polished yet. It is the opposite on the exhaust seats. You need to cut the head down to meet the exhaust seat. The next area to be concerned with is the top side of the valve seat. We are going to deschroud the valves. This means bringing the surface of the combustion chamber down to the top of the valve seat. They currently are sitting below the surface. What this does is basically like adding lift to the cam. You are increasing the distance between the valve and the floor of the combustion chamber by moving the floor not the valve.
Notice the lip around the valve seat? The seats are set pretty deep, plenty of room for improvement.
Stock combustion chamber
to be continued...
Starting with the block......
You need to determine what size pistons you are going to use and what kind. We only use Wiseco pistons. We like their tight clearances as well as their weight and strength. We get no piston slap with these like we do with JE and CP pistons. We use the block to tell us what size of pistons to use. They are usually always .020 over and rarely .040 over. By use the block I mean put it on a cnc and cut the bores until they are round. This can only be done on a cnc. Traditional borers/honers can not do this correctly. All Subaru blocks are out of round! If you are having your motor bored and the machine shop isnt going to use a cnc go somewhere else.
Listen to the video as pitch of cutter goes up and down you can hear that bore is not round. This engine had 33.5k miles on it. Mileage isn't important in factor.
Do not bore to the final size. You must leave room for the finish hone. If you used a CNC to bore your machine shop will thank you after they hone it.
Make sure you know the weight of your pistons and rods for balancing purposes.
Cleaning the surface of the block is important. For those of you out there that use fiber pads on a die grinder, shame on you. If this method is used on the both the heads and block, and you are using metal headgaskets, you can go ahead and plan on leaks. Use a head stone!
Using the stone makes for a nice even surface and it can also be used on other parts of the block where flatness is vital.
One all the mounting and mating surfaces on the block are clean, put it in the vat(if you have one) for a few cycles. In the mean time start on your oil pump.
The STI Oil Pump
Start with a new pump always! Then take it apart and make it better.
Do not use an impact driver to take the screws out. Use a cordless electric impact.
Fix this key area
Fix this as well
And your done with the pump, or at least thats all we will divulge to you :) Reassemble the pump. Make sure it is microscopically clean, fill it with the stickiest gear oil you can find, reassemble. This will make it much easier to build oil pressure before you start it. You want to put enough in the pump and coat it all to make a air tight seal, but not enough where it leaks out everywhere and you cant install it because its dumping oil on your clean and dry mounting surface. Thats why you want it sticky like gear oil or the Lucas stuff that is basically oil glue.
ď»żNext we will show you the standard of the minimum of parts you will need to build a reliable motor to handle 450-500 whp. I say that small of a power level because the blocks start spittin in the 500 range making them unreliable. You would need sleeves to be considered reliable beyond 500 whp. (whp stands for wheel horse power) this is the amount of horsepower that the pavement recieves after taking a loss from the drivetrain(axles, driveshaft, transmission, clutch,flywheel, wheels, tires, ect).
These are the ACL Race Bearings we use in all of our engines whether they be stock rebuilds or full on builds. They never let us down and will take some serious punishment. Notice the STD on the boxes. That stands for STANDARD size. If we can not use standard sized bearings we are unhappy and will suggest a new crank.
The ARP head studs are a must for any engine build where the original engine uses torque to yield head bolts, these are trash and should not be reused. The ARP studs allow for a nice even torque and are substantially stronger to reduce lifting of the head.
These are the only head gaskets we use on stock and built engines. There is no warranty on the work otherwise. It should be noted the factory gaskets are metal as well but the coating on them tends to come off and cause leaks. If you own, have owned, or know anyone who has a 99-2005 2.5 powered Subaru then you know how notorious they are for leaking.
While the STI rods are a stout upgrade for the ej20 WRX engines they just wont do for the power level we are looking for to stay reliable. The eagle rods also have arp studs in them as well as being fully forged. These are must for the high rpm ej25's.
This is a forged and nitrided crank brand new from Subaru. The perfect crank to apply our cross drilling process to.
Tired of spinning rod bearings? Here is your solution. Now the bearings are supplied more oil at the correct times. This service is specifc to us. There are others that do it, but none of them have been able to recreate the stock chamfers in the crank. The holes surrounded by black are the original. Look 90 degrees down from there to see the new hole that has been drilled and correctly chamfered.
Notice how the main bearings are different sizes? Make sure you put them in the right spot.
These are the bearings installed in the block half.
Eagle rods with the ACL race bearings installed. Make sure everything is medically clean when you are assembling your engine. A big wad of white lint free cloths is the way to tell. Wipe everything with them. If they wipe clean then continue.
Follow the torqueing instructions carefully.
Make sure you use assembly lube on the bearings and crank. We like to fill the crank with oil before assembly to aid in building oil pressure as quickly as possible.
Put the crank and rod assembly in the block making sure the rods are in the correct cylinders again using assembly lube.
You dont need to use alot of sealant on the block, a thin line will do. To much will make the mains torque wrong.
Make sure you clean all the case bolts prior to putting sealant on the block or it will dry.
This one is clean. Not pictured but make sure to use the same ARP torqueing lube on the threads and face of the bolts. This makes for a nice even torque. If your wondering why we did not use ARP studs on the block... they are exspensive, as well as the line honing that needs to be done when you install them. Unless we sleeve a block we dont use the studs. The cylinder walls will split before the factory studs let go.
These are the ARP headstuds installed in the block. It must be noted that you will need a M11x1.25 thread chaser to install these properly. ARP sells one but it does not come with the kit. You should be able to thread the studs all the way to the bottom by hand. If not use the chaser. We have had to use it on every block. Once they bottom out, hand tight torque is all they require(Less than 8 ft-lbs).
Back to the block.
Put the case half on top of the other, and follow the factory torque sequence.
Put on the rear main seal. Do this gently. Then start on assembling the piston rings on to the pistons.
As the instructions say make sure the bottom rail has its tab in the corresponding notch in the piston. It is the only way they will sit in the piston right. On to the second ring.
Then on to the compression ring.
Now that your rings are installed correctly. Poor oil all over them or dip the piston in a cup of oil. Make sure it gets behind the rings as well. Then bust out the piston ring compressor.
Before you compress the rings. Look at the dimple in the piston. It must face the front of the block. Knowing this put the back retainer clip in the piston on the side that does not face the access hole for the rist pin in the block. If you dont, you will not be able to install it with the piston in the block.
Put the piston only partially in the compressor so that the skirts sit in the block.
Set the piston/compressor assembly on the block. Make sure the ring compressor is sittng flush with the block. If not when you go to tap the piston down into the block the rings will spring out of the gap between the two. If you dont catch this and continue to hammer on the piston you will ruin whichever ring is sticking out.
Align the rod with the piston and put in the wrist pin. If you cannot push it in by hand it is either aligned wrong or the specs are wrong on your parts. Do not use a hammer and pound them in.
This what it looks like installed.
Spin the rotating assembly a few times. It should be easy to do requiring less than about 10 ft-lbs of force. Check to make sure the rings are doing their job. They should push any excess oil/lube to the top of the cylinder with no lines or scratches on the walls. Also listen and feel for any dust or debree in the bearings, if you think you hear any grinding around disassemble and start over. We like to spin it after every piston installed to locate the problem to that piston.
Since we had no engine to start with everything going into this block is new. You need to replace the metal o-rings anyway. These go where you accessed the wrist pins.
Once you are happy with everything and your pistons are happy its time to move on.
We need to do some work on this piece. This will include deleting the tgv valves, throwing away the entire fuel system, and stupid factory inlet pipe. First we will remove the injectors and send them to Deautchworks to be descreened flowed and cleaned. They will come back as 820 cc injectors with the factory latency timings. This will make for a rock solid idle and easy tunability. The manifold will also be stripped and powder coated wrinkle black.
They are back!
While the heads were at the machine shop getting the valve seats cut we were informed that some work had already been done on them. More specifically the valves were cut at 41 degrees and the valve seats at 45 degrees. What does this mean? New valves...not planned in the budget but a must. So we got Supertech Inkonel exhaust valves and stainless intake valves shipped to the machine shop in 1mm over size. So now once the seats are cut they will need to be reblended...fun. We also got Supertech dual valve springs, titanium retainers and new seats. Again not forecasted but might as well. We will make a cam decision later.
Time for a break and work on the the car it self. It arrived with more stickers on it than Ken Blocks car. Three days later, they are all off. We have no pics of the sticker job as it had the previous shops name on it in about 5000 places.
Ugghghgg.....So much to do on this car. We will start with the trunk area that was nicely filled with oil dry. I couldnt believe it when I saw it. I first thought was maybee they kept a Puma back here. No it was someones solution to soak up the oil leaking out of the parts they threw in the trunk. You should have seen the look on the previous owners face when I showed it to him....priceless. Regardless it had to be taken car of. As well as the taillighs.
Ewww, smoke taillights on Crystal Grey Metallic is a no no.
WTF right? Thats less than we said.
After what seemed like countless hours of cleaning this will not do. We will recoat this in rubber.
On to the engine bay.
Lots of cleaning done!
Not sure why this is attached to our car but you would be suprised how long it took to get it off.
On to the headlights....
This headlight is ruined. Thats not dirty you see thats where the paint they used ate the plastic lens on the lights. Again black headlights are stupid. We will resolve this issue.
And of course this one magically broke on its own according to the customer while it was away.
You need to remove the bumper to get the headlights off. This gives you good time to inspect for any damage. Gladly we found none on ours.
The bumper will also be replaced due to silly paint work and damage.
This tab is what holds the corner of the bumper to the fender, our is gone. You cant fix this. So a new bumper it is.
Options on the headlight include buying used STI lights which are expensive, new ones which are even more exspensive, or repairing the ones you have and make them the way you want them. We bought a set of JDM WRX headlights. Baked them at 220 degrees for about 20 minutes and removed the lenses and the inside trim. We tossed the rest of the light. Then we bakeed the STI lights in the same fashion and removed the lenses and trim and started customizing. The USDM headlights have amber lenses on the top and sides. We will be using the JDM clears instead.
We thought this was cool until we assembled them and put them on the car. The flat black looked bad when looking through the lens, and the all clear looked very ricer ebayish. So we switched to Gloss black for the trim and used to center amber lens and left off the big amber one on the end.
This looks much nicer than stock. I call it the hybrid...half JDM and half USDM but still HID and adjustable(we only changed the lens and trim all else is 2005 sti).
On to the suspension!
This is our suspension kit for this car. JDM titanium front strut bar. Beatrush rear diff brace, front control arm brace and aluminum underpan(not pictured) and look at the close up for the coil overs.
Yes thats right. Double adjustable pillow ball mount Ohlins coilovers with camber plates. These are a must if you track your car and drive it daily. You can not buy a better coilover unless you get Motons or ASTs custom made for you. At 4700.00 these Ohlins are a bit pricey but worth every penny.
All of the brakes on this car are bad(rotors and pads).
Use a bolt to get the rotors off the hub if they are rusted on. This works better than a hammer believe it or not.
Instructions for installing rotors is easy. Take out the two 17mm bolts holding on the caliper, replace the rotor, reinstall caliper.
These are the Brembo replacement rotors. No they arent crossdrilled(they wont crack) and no they are slotted. They do however hold up extremely well to warping compared to any other stock replacement rotor out ther minus the STOP TECH rotors which are about the same. We havent decided on pads yet. Either Carbo-tech or EBC more than likely.
We will install the diff brace and control arm brace later.
We got the heads back!
These are the cams we will be using, they are good for the price.
Very nice, notice the inconel exhaust valves and stainless intake valves(both in 1mm over), dual valve springs, titanium retainers, Brian Crower 272 AVCS cams and of course the port work.
Notice how the valves sit on top of the combustion chamber not down in it. This is how you deschroud vavles.
On to the Tumble Genorator Valves or otherwise known as TGV's
You cant have these on a high horsepower car! Why do you think the JDM cars dont have them? Because they dont care about emissions and niether do we :)
Drill out the screws that hold the plates in.
Knock out the plates and pull the rods.
This still is not good enough.
Thats more like it, a proper tgv delete. You will need to weld up the holes on the outside of the tgv's so they dont leake where you pulled the rods out for the butterflys.
Here it is in stages. You can tell just by looking which one will flow better.
The coating on these from the factory is simply amazing. After sitting in paint stripper for an hour this is all it did. We will be bead blasting this one. We are doing the Intake manifold, valve covers, APS intake and tgvs all in wrinkle black for that nice oem stealth look. Should be back from the powder coaters in a couple of days.
This is all stuff that is going in the garbage. The fuel system, tgv junk, and a vsv and hoses. None of this is needed where we are going.
Still need more time to work the car we are busy busy busy. Next time we will put the heads on and whatever else we can get done.